Day 4. Bandon - Gold Beach

day 4. Bandon - Gold Beach by jheggen at Garmin Connect - Details

62 miles today. Our longest day and my legs can feel it.  I had to keep reminding myself of Jens Voight telling my legs not to hurt.

A little bonus from last night. We can add another 10 miles on the day. 2 into town for laundry and supper with 2 back to camp and then 3 miles out to the beach to catch the last rays of the sun. Yes the sun shone and gave us a sunset and another lighthouse, and three back to camp.

When we returned to the hiker/biker camp we met up again with Tug and Jim, and Tina.  Bullard state park is one of the nicest state parks I've ever visited.  The biker section is new, complete with a solar powered "devise" recharger for the mobilely connected, AND a hot shower. There were also many other bikers there last night.  

We awoke and shared some coffee with Tug and had a great visit before 7am. What a character; a retired economics prof from the university in Monctun. He and Jim would stop in Bandon for laundry and catch up on whatever. We are not sure where they ended up today. I already miss them. 

It took us 8+ miles to find breakfast in Langlios. It was a greasy spoon. No really, that was the name of the place. A small diner on the side of the road that looks forgotten, but the food was wholesome, just like grandma cooked. 

Tina caught up to us there. We decided we would trek to Gold Beach for our last night in OR. After a few calls we got the local fairgrounds who said would open up the place, including their showers. Our tent is staked on some green grass right in front on the pavilion and soon afterward Tina rolled in. 

The gal from the fairgrounds suggested the "Crow's Nest" for pizza. Dave Fotch would love it for a Friday night dive bar hopping. It's not much to look at, but it has local character. We sat down at an empty table and after a while the single loan waiter asked if we could move beacause the group next to us was expecting more company. But Joe and Linda wouldn't have it. They invited to join their Tuesday night "aqua night" with about 5 other retired couples. What a hoot. Rhonda whittled down even more of her million best friends she has never met.  It happens Dave saw us earlier in the day as we rode past his golf course on the Cedar Valley Road, an alternate route off the 101.  Sometimes the bike route takes us off away from the heavy traffic, as if we were lost. The group even bought us drinks, and the pizza was the best, lots of garlic!  After two hours of pure joy we needed to get back to camp before it got dark.  

I promised to tell you about the OR highways, at least the coastal highway. The weekend was busy with Willamete tourist traffic. I can't blame them for taking advantage of the local coastline.  It has taken me 4 days to get used to the traffic. Since Monday the traffic has slowed, but there is still heavy truck traffic as well as all those retired guys driving their motor coaches pulling a PT Cruiser. But I must say that the vehicle traffic, local, tourist, and commercial is nothing but generous to bike traffic. I just pray each time a camper passes that their door step was pulled in and their rear view mirror passes over instead of through my helmet.

OR has done a great job keeping the 101 bike friendly. It is a well marked bike route and the road is swept clean, with plenty of shoulder; well most of the time. 

ODOT(Oregon dept of transportation) produces a highway map just for the bike route. It shows the route, mileage, elevation profile, and shows where the highway has 3 foot shoulders or not. And it's free. The Adventure Cycling maps have better detailed descriptions for amenities, but they come with a price.

Also, OR tends to cater to the idea that life is the journey. Rhonda keeps encouraging me to relax, travel at my own pace and not be in a hurry. I am supposed to be the retired one in the family.  I need not worry about our distance each day and our average speed, the grade of each climb and number of calories I'm burning. Nor do I need to worry if we keep up with Tug and Jim or those cheaters with the sag wagon. This is OUR adventure. (Did I mention I already miss Tug?).

OR highways help out in this manner. Seldom if ever do we see road signs that mention the next whatever is only 3 miles down the road. The best they do is make note of the next large city 100's of miles from the last large city. You just roll on down the road and every now and then you round the bend and find the quaintest small town with the best food ever, over find a pull out with the grandest of views. What OR doesn't spend on mileage signs must go into their coastal state parks. 

So now I will simply enjoy the ride with my bestest friend and wife, savor the time together and live the adventure far.  

Day 3 - Umpqua Lighthouse to Bullards State park ( near Bandon OR)

Day 3 Umpqua lighthouse to Bullards by jheggen at Garmin Connect - Details

OR state parks are just the bomb. Very biker accommodating. Did I mention the hot showers! Awesome. I'm used to backpacking and taking the occasional cold water bird bath. Umpqua uses on demand water heaters. Instructions state turn on a couple showers to get the hot water flowing. I think that just created more demand than they could handle.  Tonight's shower in Bullard had all the hot water I wanted! 🚿. 

Last nights supper was a bag of lettuce, a packet of deli turkey, dressing and a cookie.  I was satisfied but Rhonda woke up hungry....at 2am. This morning we rode 7 miles into the quaint little burg of Lakeside and met Tug and Jim at the local American classic diner. Rhonda had enough cholesterol for the year. I had some French toast. The menu mentioned three eggs. I assumed that's what they dipped the bread in. So in addition to the two slices of decadent toast, I had three eggs AND sausage.  

Lakeside wants to attract tourist off the 101 a mile, but still keep its culture of timber and commercial fishermen.  They are simply down to earth folk.  They line their streets with Scare Crows. Not sure this is meant to draw in tourist or keep us away. However the cholesterol binge was the cheapest meal yet. 

Tug and Jim finished early and we wouldn't see them until North Bend/Coos Bay.  The road was quick and relatively flat as we continued past the Oregon sand dunes national rec area. 

We met Tug and Jim and two others, Steve and Art just before the mile long Coos Bay expansion bridge. Steve, Art and their crew are cheating. Steve's wife drives their van with all their gear:the ultimate sag wagon.  They are staying in motels or yurts every night....cheaters...

Jim, Steve, Art, Tug, Rhonda, and me. 

The big yellow warm Orb made an appearance today!

We shed jackets, vests, arm warmers and replaced them with sunscreen! 

We stopped at the Starbucks in Safeway again, this time in Coos Bay.  We bought some snacks and replenished our supply of Vitamin I, the adult vitamin (ibuprofen ). We left Jim and Tug and headed up the "scenic" route of the Seven Devils road towards Bandon.  Scenic route means narrow, winding, and hilly. The garmin registered an 11% grade at one point. This morning's cholesterol has left us.

I should mention our gear: 

Rhonda rides a true touring machine; a trek 520 modified with drop handle bars and shimano ultegra shifters to manage her triple cranks and standard 9 speed cassette.  It also sports some nifty bling given to her by her friend Lisa. The 520's name is "Tunk" 

In complete opposition to my mantra that the number of bikes one requires is X+1, where X is the number of current bikes you own, I have a hybrid; a trek CrossRip Elite. It can tour, commute, and do some cycle cross. It has an aluminum frame as opposed to steel and a geometry more close to a road bike. It has a compact crank and I swapped out the cassette for a 11-34 9 speed. It came in handy today. I haven't named it yet, but my bling comes from New Belgium Brewing, so I think I will name it "Amber". But if I go on any more tours I may need to get Tunks sibling. 

Well, I'm sitting in a local Mexican restaurant finishing my first true supper of the trip. Rhonda just swapped the laundry to the dryer. Soon we need to motor back across the bridge to our camp before it gets too dark and check out the local lighthouse. Remind tomorrow to talk about the OR highways and biker hospitality.  

Until then, here is our camp for the night, a request from Ty:

And I thought Tuna came from a can! 

Day 2 Update: guiding lights

The crash of your thunder was in the whirlwind; your lightnings lighted up the world; the earth trembled and shook. (Psalm 77:18 ESV)

The Umpqua lighthouse was built in 1857 for $50,000! A lot of money back then I'm sure. But this lighthouse kept sailors out of harm's way, guiding them to safety, avoiding the crashing waves. It's light pierced the darkness for 19 miles. 

Day 2: Wakonda Beach- Umpqua Lighthouse State Park

Untitled by jheggen at Garmin Connect - Details
OR state parks are simply awesome. Along the coast the parks have designated hiker/biker camp sites. No need for reservations, just squeeze another tent in. 

These parks also come with hot water showers!  After camp was set up and showers warmed us up we had to find supper. We failed to stop in Waldport for supplies. We rode a couple miles to a minimart that looks like it was condemned and found some yogurt, nuts and peanut butter crackers. That along with some cliff bars we brought staved off hunger. 

A few other bikers shared camp and Rhonda whittled down 4 more of her million of her best friends she hasn't met yet. Jim and Tug are from Nova Scotia, aye. Great guys. They have been biking for ever.  Tug has crossed Canada and this is his second time down the left coast. Tina is from Holland. She is by herself and has biked the US before. She's on holiday from her contracting and house painting business. Aaron is from Klamath Falls and is doing a loop ride for the long weekend. He is also a bike mechanic which is handy to have around. 

It was a cool night but the winds died down and after sharing some warm coffee we turned in early.

We awoke around 7, brewed some more coffee and hot cocoa and broke camp. All six of us roadie the 5 miles to Yachats and found breakfast....a large warm feast. 

We rode 60 miles and climbed over 3000 feet today never getting higher than 400 feet above sea level. The winds were calm early and later prevailed from the north like they are supposed to. We made are to Florence where the six of joined up again. We found a Starbucks in a Safeway to warm up and fuel up. This is where we said goodbye to Aaron. Tomorrow he heads inland for Eugene, his car and then home to his wife.  

Earlier enroute Rhonda had a scare. She is still suffering from her cold, tried to clear her nose, front tire went one way and she another, when gravity took over. Fortunately we were on a slight hill and going pretty slow.  Some bruises to her and scratches on Tunk the bike. 

We rolled

Up and down along the coast and found camp in another state park. We stopped in town and bought some salad fixings and are waiting our turn at the showers.  

It looks like Tug, Jim, and Tina have caught up and will join us for another night.  

All is well at the end of day 2.

Day 1: Lincoln City to Wakonda Beach

Rhonda has been giddy all week and her excitement sored this morning as we loaded up the car and headed for the coast. Randy and Pam joined us in the car and would later shuttle our car back to their place for the next two weeks. After dropping us off on the south side of Lincoln City we agreed to meet them for lunch at the " Chowder Bowl" in Newport. While we rode, they leisurely shopped and visited art galleries. 

The forecast called for sunny skies, warm into the seventies. An on shore breeze blew in a marine layer that kept the sun hidden most of the day. My thermometer never rose above 52 degrees and the prevailing north winds pretty much came directly out of the south.  Hey, anyone can do this when it is clear and warm and calm.  

We rode south stopping at Devil's Punch Bowl and Yaquina Head lighthouse before meeting Randy and Pam for some warm clam chowder and hot coffee.

After lunch we left our friends and saddled up. The brisk winds and cool temps kept us motoring along. Soon we were nearing Waldport and the local beaches. I saw some kids flying a kite and it reminded me of the last time I  vacationed on the OR coast with the Schmidt's and Hall's.  I recall finding a kite shop for Connor and little Leah. I'm pretty sure we passed the beach house we rented.

After 45 miles and 2000 feet elevation gain ( the same 100 ft 20 times), we pulled into Beachside State Park for the night. 

Our first day is down. Hopefully I will get used to the traffic on the highway. I was expecting less after Labor Day but it is a weekend along the coast. Until tomorrow.

OR/CA coast D Day minus 1

Headed to the coast! We are loaded up and driving down the road.
We made it to McMinnville, OR and are staying with our friends Randy and Pam Harris. They will drive us to Lincoln City in the morning for the the start of our grand adventure.

Rhonda can hardly contain herself!  We are both trying to stave off the beginnings of colds and hope we can finally get a good night's rest.  So it's good night for now. Stay tuned for notes from the road.  

OR/CA coast D-Day minus 2 days

Coast Ride Check Ride by jheggen at Garmin Connect - Details

Rhonda is getting real excited for this adventure far. We leave Friday for the Portland area and then head out down the road from Lincoln City on Saturday morning.

We have spent the last two days packing our gear and getting the bikes ready.  John at George's Cycles on Fairview has been great help getting us some last minute maintenance done on the bikes.  Tonight we loaded up our panniers and took the bikes out for a fully loaded test ride up to the top of Lucky Peak Dam. It felt good.

From the top of Lucky Peak Dam