Day 5 Okanogan to Tonasket

Today it’s all about roads & people. We started out early to beat the heat but not early enough to beat some of the dogs who wanted to chase us! We started on a side road which had little traffic. It was littered with beer bottles and so much broken glass. Good thing we didn’t have much traffic because we could not always stay on the shoulder safely. We then were greeted by large dogs in two separate locations. One place, the dogs came from either side of us. We took the whole road and spoke gruffly to them to get them to back off. Next town was quaint and off the road. We then got back on to Highway 20 to have road construction. After waiting about twenty minutes, we got a special ride in the pilot car around the road construction. The best part was it kept the traffic off the road for long periods of time.

The second part is about all the amazingly kind people we meet. The construction crew was great & chatted with us before we got our special escort. Then we arrived at our destination. Shannon’s Place in Tonasket, WA. I had called ahead because it was mentioned in the Adventure Cycling map as place to camp. It is a local Mecca for the town people and we met three more cross country cyclists. One man is going from Seattle to the Florida Keys! Another gal is doing a solo trip from Sun Valley through the whole Northwest, down the Oregon coast & back to Idaho. People are just relaxed and friendly; everybody has a story & they are encouraging. I will end with my laundry mat experience. Not always my favorite place but a huge necessity on this trip as we have limited room to carry clothes or extra riding gear. Our stuff gets dirty and smelly quick!!!! Today is really hot so you get the picture. I am in the laundry mat and a man who lives up in the hills engages me in a conversation. We chat. Then a lady comes over thanking me for talking to him. I just said, he needed someone to talk to and listen to him. The next thing I know is she is asking me about her knee injury. She pulls up her skirt, shows me her knee & asks my advice. She knew nothing about me, but said she thought bicyclists would know what to do about this. Phew, I politely told her to ice it & knew Jon was over on the deck enjoying a beer. I hurried back to the wonderful deck at Shannon’s Place. 

Rhonda

Day 4. To Okanagon via Loup Loup Pass

What a difference a day and a summit pass make! Yesterday we cruised down the backside of Washington pass in some cool drizzle with nice tailwind pushing us. We split a turkey pesto sandwich at the Goat market in Mazama and continued on Winthrop. After a nice rest, we cruised down the road to Twisp for breakfast, or possibly brunch. 

We’ve met many great folks. Yesterday on Rainy Pass, a couple walked up to us with the usual questions: where are you from?,  where are you going?, how long will it take?, you’re incredible! Last night that same couple saw our bikes parked in front of the market and came looking for, making sure we found a place to camp. Then in Twisp while eating breakfast/brunch, a guy, looking very much like Yvon Chouinard walked up to us, bowed and said, “ you guys are impressive. We passed you yesterday on the North Cascade highway and were so impressed.” Then the usual questions and standard responses. Maine!? Say again how far? 

Decending down the Methow River soon ended, leaving the valley we started climbing again up to Loup Loup Pass. We met our fourth biking couple, Chris and Patty from Maine. They are our mirror image. They flew to Seattle and our biking home to Maine. He’s the extrovert, she the quiet one. Looking forward to seeing them on the road soon. 

The country has changed from Pacific Northwest rain forest to a drier Ponderosa Pine mix and now sage brush steppe.  My friend Johna was right. It wouldn’t take time before we wished we had the cooler and damper climates. Rhonda even wanted to run through someone’s yard sprinklers. 

After a warmer climb up to Loup Loup, we had a sweat descent on long stretches of fresh smooth brandy new tarmac. Then halfway down some engineer with a cute sense of humor put in a 10% bump in the road. The legs didn’t have much left in them. But we coasted into Okanagon through orchards and vineyards. Not much was open in town but we did find a taco truck and found a motel with a soft bed and AC. (We’ve gone from near freezing to near 90 in 24 hours…yeah you’re right, I should be used to that.). 

Ok it’s time for a shower and then hopefully the BBQ and Brew with deck seating will open for dinner. 

Jon 

Type II Fun. Day 3 over the North Cascades

Just a quick update. This was a long day. Up and up, down up, then down. Only a little rain. Otherwise it was beautiful country. Even some Sasquatch sign. A must do again…in the van. Saw our friends Matt and Angel, and Lil and Jacob on the way up. 

No services for 60 miles. A quick stop at the bottom in Mazama then another 16 miles to Winthrop, a KOA with hot showers and some laundry. To bed at 10 in our comfy tent. 

We are now 9 miles down the road eating brunch in the town of Twisp. Then another hill to climb. Only 3000’. Easy Peasy 

Day 2: Raser to Newhalem

“Who shall separate us from the love of Christ? Shall trouble or hardship or persecution or famine or nakedness or danger or sword? ... No, in all these things we are more than conquerors through him who loved us. — Romans 8:35-37”

We were dry and rested when we awoke in our three sided Adirondack shelter. Raser State park needs to be revisited, maybe from our van. We sat and visited with Lil and Jacob, sharing each other’s stories and future plans. Lil sings and plays drums in a band and often comes to Boise for gigs at Pengilly’s. She has our contact info and we will be there. 
The morning has hints of sunshine and blue skies and we took advantage of them while we could. After a cup of Via coffee and hot cocoa, we rode a pleasant 8 miles on side roads to Concrete, WA. Yes, it is known for its Portland Superior Cement. It should be known for 5 B’s Bakery. We had a huge and delicious brunch with more coffee. Very nice folks there. 
Then it was off on more side roads meandering with the Skagit River through Rockport and on to Marblemount where we had planned to buy some grub for supper and tomorrow’s breakfast in camp. 
Arriving with us in Marblemount was the rain again. We sheltered under the porch of the Chevron market. Loaded up on snacks, tortillas and muffins and sat out the rain. And as it happens we met more of our new best friends. Matt and Angel are cycling through, but only a Cascade-Mt Hood loop. However, they may be more seasoned than us. Living in WA they made arrangements to stay in motels during the rainy season. The rain tricked us into believing it was letting up so we loaded up and started pedaling the final 14 miles to North Cascade NP and our Newhalem campground. 

We have a sweet tent spot just above the Skagit River. The rain has stopped. The tent is up. It’s time for dinner. 

God is good. Nothing can separate us from His Love. 

Day 1. Anacortes to Raser State Park

I had thought my post for day 1 should be more poetic, thoughtful, deeper. The truth is, I have been anxious for some time about our trip: Three months away from home, 4200 miles of self powered pedaling, unsupported except what we bring on our two bikes. 

Then the forecast of rain and possible rain-snow mix for the first three days did not calm my worrisome jitters. 

Then we started off. After being sent off by our friends Margaret and Andy, Al and Donna, we were doing it. 

The rain came and stayed. I had a flat tire within the first 13 miles. We took a few wrong turns. Yet we finished our first day. 

Along the way we met Larry, owner of Pioneer Market. He was out for a ride and I think he was happy to know he wasn’t the only crazy person who liked biking in the rain. And his deli made one nice sandwich. He led us through the town of Sedro Woolley directing us on our route 

We arrived at Raser state park. Happiest sight of the day. The ranger was extremely helpful and altered our tent site accommodation to a three sided shelter, aka Adirondack. We are warm, dry, fed, and showered, a hot shower! 

Then we met two more of Rhonda’s best friends, also on a quest to find Maine on a bicycle. I am headed over to their camp now to help them with some brake issues. 

Jon 

As we start, I think of a wedding that we attended last week in KS. What a joyous celebration! You only want the best for the young couple, but we all know it will be hard along the way. We aren’t afraid of hard, but still we don’t know what we don’t know. This is like marriage, we kissed, didn’t dip our tires because the tide was out & it was too muddy, we got on our way… Within the first mile, it started raining! It never let up. We are soaked through & I am pretty sure nothing will be dry in the morning. But there will be days like this & we encourage each other to keep going. As the saying goes, you have to learn to dance in the rain, or maybe bike in the rain. 

Someone I love very much always says, “anyone can do it in the sunshine.” Weathering the storms together is how you do marriage. So here’s to our celebration!!!

Rhonda

NBD(New Bike Day)

Just in time for the start of our tour across the USA, my new bike arrived. It is a Salsa Cutthroat GRX 810, nicknamed “Redband Cutty” 

A big thanks to World Cycle and XC Ski of Boise for working hard to get in the bike and get it all set up. 

We did a test ride around our neighborhood urban gravel route. A favorite short ride. 

We are hoping for a few more test rides to dial in the fit. 

Now to pack up all our gear, mow the lawn, cancel our TV subscription and say good bye to friends in the coming days. 

Because of some planned and unplanned trips to the Midwest during the past month, we are delaying our departure by one day. I’m sure we can make up the lost time on our Cutties. 

Getting Ready?

It is overwhelming to think that less than two weeks we will begin our ride across the US via the Northern Tier Route. The dream is about to become reality. 

Route planning has been made, gear lists have been checked and checked again. Packing has begun and most gear has been gathered. All except a major important component. I ordered a new bike. A Salsa Cutthroat. The same bike and groupset as the bike Rhonda will be riding. The idea was to reduce redundant spare parts and simplify maintenance and repair. And hey, who doesn’t want to support N+1 with a new carbon frame adventure bike? But the bike has been delayed. And delayed again. Of course the ‘Rona has interrupted the manufacturing and delivery chain, unable to meet everyone’s desire to explore. 

Ready or not, we will drive to Anacortes,WA on June 11th to dip our rear tires in the salty water of the Sound and begin our eastward journey. You will get to meet several friends who will be joining or meeting us for varying durations throughout the summer. And we look forward to meeting many new friends along the way. As I’ve said before, “there are a million of Rhonda’s best friends she hasn’t even met yet”. 

In the meantime, there is a wedding in Kansas to attend. Then get in a few more trading rides, hopefully with a new Cutthroat.