Triglav National Park

The road climbs steeply up the mountain. It is paved wide enough for one American F150, so I’m not sure how 2 cars can pass one another much less the logging truck that is behind me. We pass through a village with even narrower streets. Somehow google takes me one way and the logging truck gets ahead of me. There is a toll on the road ahead. Like a parking garage you take a ticket and the gate opens. You pay when you leave. We approach our trailhead 7 kilometers later and there is a traffic jam as that logging truck is 1/2 finished loading at a log deck. How did he get up this winding road so fast. 

Our objective is the Triglav Lakes Lodge, a mountain hut that should take us on a 10 mile round trip. Our route is like a figure eight. The trail follows what I think is an old logging road but steeper. Later we learn this first section averages 13% for the first few miles. There are several mountain huts along our path. Some are full service with food and sleeping accommodations. On our return coming down an even steeper road we pass a compound of huts that reminds me of old mining claims on the edge of Idaho’s wilderness. In fact this road and compound looks like Yellow Jacket west of Salmon below the middle fork lookout. There is an Isuzu trooper even traveling this road. A many game warden pickups and backs were damaged on rough roads like these. 

But I’m getting ahead of myself. After the first hut we pass we leave this road and take off up a footpath towards yet another hut. We are in a rhythm of hiking now. Mostly climbing, we meander through forest and open brush, just below tree line. 

We begin a long traverse below steep canyon walls above and a deep valley below. Then magically we pop out into a hanging valley with two small lakes and the Triglav Lakes Lodge. It has been a long morning and we are beginning to feel fatigued. It is 1:30 and we look forward to a mountain hut lunch and a break. The weather has been threatening and we contemplate our return route which is planned for a steep climb with a stretch of cable holds up and over. If it storms we will be exposed. 

As we eat our sauerkraut soup, mine with sausage, and drink our drinks, the sun pops out. We decide to go with plan A and climb up and over. It was the correct decision. What views, what a challenge. We climb above the trees and krumholz before scrambling through a crack in the wall with the aid of cables for hand holds. We reach the top and the wind, take a breather and begin the four mile descent. Soon we cross an intersection we were at a few hours ago and take a left, more direct route down. We pass the mountain complex that reminds me of Yellowjacket and the rain begins.  It is light but making the path a bit slippery. But after a total of 8 hour, 5 moving hours and according to Garmin, 14.5 miles we reach the car. I’m still amazed at the amount of cars parked there. We meet a solo hiker who claims he just came from Mt Triglav, Slovenias highest point. His day has been much longer and tougher. 

We jump in the car and meander down to the gate and pay our 20 Euros to pass and then drive narrow roads through a couple villages towards a mountain penzion, the Alpine Homestead where we are treated with local cuisine all sourced on sight or from their neighbors. The owner says time stops in the mountains and we relax southing our tired muscles and sore knees. The weather comes through and we are treated to a massive thunderstorm in the middle of the night.  But we are warm, dry, clean and fed. Another perfect day. 

 

Lake Bled

 Lake Bled and Triglav National Park are where fairy tails are created. It is just beautiful in 360 degrees. 

The Vintgar Gorge is an enchanted hike along the Radovna River that cuts deep in the earth with the aid of glacial run off. Watch your head. 

 

The town of Bled is very popular thanks to Rick Steves and other You Tubers. But well worth the traffic. They required helmets on our gorge hike, but no life jackets required on the wooden flat bottomed boat out to the island. When you are finished take a short hike up to Cafe Belvedere for a cup of kava and the famous Bled Cream cake with stunning views from the terrace Tito entertained world leaders

. 

We drove down the valley 45 minutes to Lake Bohinj, a much quieter and quaint village but with all the views. 

 

A Train, A Bus and a Schnitzel

 

Our time in LA has come to an end, for now. Yesterday was spent with Daniela, her mom, sister, brother in law Lucaś and 18 month old Mati. First we joined them at church in Ceska Trebova. God’s Word was spoken and He was worshipped and there was fellowship. 

After a lunch further north we walked up to the Hrad Potstejn for a history lesson and amazing views of the country side. 

The highlight of the day was sitting around the table of Alća and Lucaś sharing a meal and some wine and fellowship sharing life together. Little Mati was active and happy and after all the high fives, he gave me a hug before we left. Alća and Lucaś are wonderful parents. 

And speaking of wonderful parents, Alena is a wonderful host to us and mom to Daniela. Her love language is certainly service to others. It is hard to turn down all the food she wants to prepare for us. Saying goodbye this morning was difficult when she dropped us off at the train station. 

So there we were on a train with Daniela headed south towards Vienna on our way to to Ljubljana. It was nearly a re-creation of our trip back in 2018. I was reminded of a nice out of the way Austrian restaurant in Wein with famous schnitzel. Daniela said our train to bus transfer would take us to within a 7 minute walk of the Puerstner.  Nothing has changed, probably in a 100 years. The old dark wooden interior is covered in stuffed animals and antiques. I can only dream of what clandestine deals and schemes that were hatched during the Cold War in this place. The pork schnitzel and bier was as remembered. 

Soon we are on a 5 hour bus headed towards the Slovene border. The 4 lane autobahn cruises.  And then we pass through the border and our third country of the day. I must have dozed off a few times as the time flies. Apparently so do the seasons. It was hot in CZ but it has rained all day and it feels like fall. I’m still in a T-shirt and am just about perfect. 

We reach Ljubljana and walk several blocks in the rain and find our hotel/apartment for the night. A rental apartment. The owner says it’s really safe. The police station is across the street. We off load our bags and take a breather. It’s already dark out. Are the police still in their office? We venture out and start walking towards the center of town along the river Ljubljanica and wait until just the right restaurant invites us in. It is the Vander. They are busy and normally only except reservations but if we are willing, the matre ‘d will clear a table. He says we are very lucky this evening. More like blessed. Our waitress is very kind. The girls order a tomato salad and I try the Burrata cheese salad with tomatoes and dried plums. She suggests a local white wine and who am I to argue. I did not realize I liked any of these things. It is so wonderful. 

We walk back through the cobbled center while the lone accordion plays traditional music and the castles glows high above the skyline.