Highs and Lows

We awoke to cloudy and threatening skies. It was a torrential downpour.  Back in the Czech Republic and Germany they are predicting 100 year wide spread flooding. Our planned hiking has been postponed. The drive down into the valley was gorgeous. There were times the sky broke clear, but that was just a trick. 

We learned that the Elan ski company is headquartered nearby and they have a museum associated with their factory and store. So we learned the evolution of skiing, learned how to make skis and even survived a ski simulator.

Our next accommodation was the mountain hut, Erjavčeva at Vršič pass, high above Kranjska Gora at nearly 5000’. There is a reason the Slovenian pro cyclists are some of the best climbers in the pro peloton. There were 21 sharp and steep switchbacks to the top on a very narrow road. 

As we approached the end the rain quickly was becoming a solid object and the trees were becoming white. We arrived at our hut and were greeted warmly. There were many cancellations so we were able to get a private room and not a public dorm. As we settled in, the snow continued and began to accumulate.  No worries, we had warm food, great local wine, showers, bathrooms, and a ceiling above us. By morning we awoke to nearly 8” of heavy snow. How would we slide down those 21 switchbacks? We ate a typical hut breakfast of fresh breads, jams, cheeses, cured meats, and coffee while we contemplated our next steps. We were scheduled to hike the area and stay another night but the forecast was not changing. A German couple was in the same predicament and we agreed to travel down together. The main road had been plowed but we needed to shovel a path from the parking lot to the road. The German Audi needed a little push and shove but we got him to the road and with a little help I managed to rock our VW out of the snow and followed. Then we offered a prayer for us and our new friends and off we went. The ride down was not that bad. I now know why each switchback is cobbled and not paved. The cobbles offer some extra traction in those 20% steep and sharp bends. We counted the 21 switchbacks in reverse and soon we were back in Kranjska Gora having cappuccino. 

  New plans.

We switched gears and headed for lower country. And I mean lower. We traveled south of Ljubljana to Postojna and toured a UESCO sight, the Postojna Cave. After taking a small train into the cavern a few kilometers, we all got out for a 60 minute walk, approximately 1.5 km guided tour. Quite fascinating. Our lowest point was 120 meters(394’) below the surface. A highlight of lows! 

Now we find ourselves at a rural penzion in the farmlands in the village of Grobišče above ground, below the snow line awaiting a meal of local cuisines and wines. 

Triglav National Park

The road climbs steeply up the mountain. It is paved wide enough for one American F150, so I’m not sure how 2 cars can pass one another much less the logging truck that is behind me. We pass through a village with even narrower streets. Somehow google takes me one way and the logging truck gets ahead of me. There is a toll on the road ahead. Like a parking garage you take a ticket and the gate opens. You pay when you leave. We approach our trailhead 7 kilometers later and there is a traffic jam as that logging truck is 1/2 finished loading at a log deck. How did he get up this winding road so fast. 

Our objective is the Triglav Lakes Lodge, a mountain hut that should take us on a 10 mile round trip. Our route is like a figure eight. The trail follows what I think is an old logging road but steeper. Later we learn this first section averages 13% for the first few miles. There are several mountain huts along our path. Some are full service with food and sleeping accommodations. On our return coming down an even steeper road we pass a compound of huts that reminds me of old mining claims on the edge of Idaho’s wilderness. In fact this road and compound looks like Yellow Jacket west of Salmon below the middle fork lookout. There is an Isuzu trooper even traveling this road. A many game warden pickups and backs were damaged on rough roads like these. 

But I’m getting ahead of myself. After the first hut we pass we leave this road and take off up a footpath towards yet another hut. We are in a rhythm of hiking now. Mostly climbing, we meander through forest and open brush, just below tree line. 

We begin a long traverse below steep canyon walls above and a deep valley below. Then magically we pop out into a hanging valley with two small lakes and the Triglav Lakes Lodge. It has been a long morning and we are beginning to feel fatigued. It is 1:30 and we look forward to a mountain hut lunch and a break. The weather has been threatening and we contemplate our return route which is planned for a steep climb with a stretch of cable holds up and over. If it storms we will be exposed. 

As we eat our sauerkraut soup, mine with sausage, and drink our drinks, the sun pops out. We decide to go with plan A and climb up and over. It was the correct decision. What views, what a challenge. We climb above the trees and krumholz before scrambling through a crack in the wall with the aid of cables for hand holds. We reach the top and the wind, take a breather and begin the four mile descent. Soon we cross an intersection we were at a few hours ago and take a left, more direct route down. We pass the mountain complex that reminds me of Yellowjacket and the rain begins.  It is light but making the path a bit slippery. But after a total of 8 hour, 5 moving hours and according to Garmin, 14.5 miles we reach the car. I’m still amazed at the amount of cars parked there. We meet a solo hiker who claims he just came from Mt Triglav, Slovenias highest point. His day has been much longer and tougher. 

We jump in the car and meander down to the gate and pay our 20 Euros to pass and then drive narrow roads through a couple villages towards a mountain penzion, the Alpine Homestead where we are treated with local cuisine all sourced on sight or from their neighbors. The owner says time stops in the mountains and we relax southing our tired muscles and sore knees. The weather comes through and we are treated to a massive thunderstorm in the middle of the night.  But we are warm, dry, clean and fed. Another perfect day.