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So, folks have been asking, "why are you leaving us hanging? What was your high point? What did y'all learn? What is your next adventure? Would you do it again?" and many more.  I'm actually still trying to ponder all these and more myself. I'll let Rhonda give her thoughts below, but first, to catch you up. 

We arrived on Mount Desert Island on Labor Day. The crowds were supposed to be headed home, and indeed traffic leaving the island was heavy. Our KOA camp on the NW corner of the island was upgraded to a cabin, as the forecast called for one more rain event. We offered Andrew a bunk to share and we accepted and we enjoyed a last day and evening together, sharing some great burgers and brew across the street at the Island Take Out, associated with the gas/convenient store. Later that evening the expected rain appeared, but did not last long and it turned out to be a nice evening and night. 

The next morning we said our goodbyes to Andrew who was extending his sojourn north. We then road empty bikes into Bar Harbor for a delightful breakfast, for which the crowds were not bad, the food awesome and no more expensive than we have seen anywhere along the trip. We enjoyed the village of Bar Harbor and found that we could return for an extended visit in the future...with the van and reserved camping in the park. 

Speaking of the park, we road a few miles on the gravel carriage roads and they also demand another visit. Acadia National Park is quite nice and although I did not need to show my recently acquired Senior Park pass, it was required and allowed me and 3 of my friends to ride bikes in the park. I only needed to utilize one of them for Rhonda, so in the future I'll be looking for two others willing to join us. I think I may have talked about all this earlier, but it's been a couple weeks. 

That night we returned to our camp and Island Take Out for another scrumptious dinner. We had been trying to connect with Mark, whom we last saw in MN after Dalbo. He had finally caught and passed us and was somewhere in Bar Harbor. Our only bit of communication was on STRAVA! Why hadn't we exchanged phone numbers. For some reason we missed each other that morning. Now he too was headed home. 

On Wed we road once again into Bar Harbor, by a different, not quite as hilly road. Five miles from the village we started climbing a last climb and instead of shifting down I stood up and cranked a hard gear, enough so that I heard a POP! and knew instantly that I popped a spoke on the back wheel. Limping onward we arrived at the bike shop early, where there was already a large line waiting at the door. Waiting that is, to get their rental bikes for the park. We were advised to find breakfast and return in 45 minutes by which time the store, with limited staffing because the summer students had returned home for school, could help us pack. 

Co-owner and brother Joe was so assuring when we had all sorts of questions about how to pack our gear for the trip home. In the end, after he let us decide what we needed to take with us, we left our bikes and gear in his care. They arrived last Friday, all in one piece, save the spoke. Then we waited, ever so patiently, for the shuttle van to take us to Bangor and the airport. 

There we simply crashed at the Sheraton Inn at the airport, ate in hotel, slept, and slept some more. Our flight was scheduled for noonish the next day, so the morning was leisurely if not long. Then a flight to Charlotte, NC, a short lay over and the long flight to Seattle, when at 7:30PM local or 11:30 internal time, we landed and were greeted by Al and Donna. We were exhausted....and hungry. Al knew of a Pho and noodle place that was open for another 15 minutes and we just made it. 

After a night's rest, not quite sleep, we awoke 5AM local time, but it felt like we were sleeping in. Eventually Al awoke and coffee and cocoa were served followed shortly with some breakfast. Al had been storing our car for three months. It was looking new! He had washed it and made sure it was running. Such a brother and friend. Anxious to return home, we said goodbye and tried to remember how to drive a car. Taking back roads around Seattle and popping out at North Bend, I found a favorite and familiar coffee shop open for one last cup before we entered the fray of the interstate. It was a long drive home...nearly 3 months of biking seemed shorter, but we finally arrived home. 

There has been all sorts re entry stories that could be told: water in the crawl space, yard work, cleaning gear, mold removal of gear, sorting of gear, waking up at 4AM and even now 9 days later still waking up at 5, sickness, heartache, worries, but these will have to be shared in person over coffee. What you really want is the answer to those original questions above. 

I'm not sure there is any one specific event that could be considered the highlight of the trip. How could there be? There were just so many great experiences. However, the greatest observation I have is the love and kindness so many people extended to us. God blessed us with so many kind people. Regardless of their backgrounds, politics, differing views of world events, the thing they first asked us was, "can I offer you anything, how can I help?" We have a list of names and phone numbers of folks who wanted to insure we were not in need of any help should we find ourselves in trouble. They offered us rescue, sleeping quarters, food, transportation, direction, but most of all, they offered us their time and themselves. They offered a chance to experience their lives in their communities. They wanted us to know how they lived, experience their experiences and share their lives. They wanted to rub shoulders with us in their reality, stuff you don't get when you are cruising by on the interstate at 80 mph. 

There are some other observations to be noted:

In general the trip exceeded all my expectations. We pedaled most days. Even on our rest days, we had some pedaling to do. Bikes were our only means of transport. I never thought we could ride a bike day after day. Less than a month into the journey, I woke each morning with anticipation of riding my bike. So we did, for nearly 3,700 miles and nearly 130,000 feet of elevation gain, in 14 different states. In addition to the people, as mentioned above, I was awestruck by the beauty found in each state. Even the Tall corn grown in Indiana. I love the Pacific NW, but there is something about the midwest that is appealing.  I look forward to riding in Minnesota and the rolling hills of Wisconsin again. I loved Michigan, the UP and west coast of lower Michigan. It was fun to relive some history in Ohio and ride the Erie Canal of New York. Speaking of which, when I thought of NY my mind always saw the city and the hordes of people. The Adirondacks were gorgeous and as I've mentioned before, I imagined them not much different than they were 50-70 years ago, except the cars don't sport wooden side panels and the canoes on their tops are made of kevlar and not cedar strips. It is another place I want to revisit. 

I love Lobster. Who would have thought. I'm not much of seafood junky, or so I thought. 

Return to the Heartland 

Riding through the Minnesota during last year’s Northern Tier cross country tour was a highlight. So much so, we are returning next week to ride a loop through the heartland. 

This journey started 60 years ago when my mom and dad took me to Bemidji, MN where I met Paul Bunyan and Babe, the Blue Ox. My only memory of the trip is a photo of my dad lifting me up to pet Babe. I hope to reintroduce myself. 

After visiting my dad, we hope to drive to Lake Bemidji State Park where we will load our bikes and begin a counter clockwise route using several on Minnesota’s awesome trails. We will ride portions of the Paul Bunyan Trail, the Soo Line, the Lake Wobegon and the Central Lakes Trail to Fergus Falls. From there we will cross country through some lake country back to Bemidji. 

Stay tuned. Departure date is planned for July 5. 

Coast to Coast

It poured rain two nights ago in Balsam Cove. After three months of use the Big Agnes tent has kept us dry. It’s been a good home this summer. And just as we left the west coast with the threat of rain, we inched oh so much closer to the east coast in a heavy mist and fog. 

Andrew messaged us and thought we were in Ellsworth, which after 85 miles he ended his day. We said we would ride the 15 miles and meet him for second breakfast there. Being a holiday Monday, nothing appeared willing to be open for business. We met Amy downtown who suggested the “Precipice”, a new business willing to stay open and take the crowds on a Monday needing their caffeinated fix. 

While waiting for Andrew we met Jeff and Steph from NYC. They sure were fun to talk with. Like so many we have met along the way, we think we would like to hang out with them back home. I hope we encouraged them in their adventures. 

Andrew joined us later and soon agreed to ride with us to the final destination, MDI, mount desert island. We rode in a line of three along with all the Labor Day traffic. We invited him to share our campsite which was upgraded to a rustic cabin for only $13 more each night. Indeed we had another rain shower. 

 

Andrew is continuing his sojourn north and east to the eastern most point in Maine, Lubec for a couple three nights of solo reflection. What a gentle soul. 

Today we rode into Bar Harbor, found second breakfast and then found the bike shop that will box and ship our bikes home. Then we found Acadia National Park. The skies are clear and the weather was perfect. 

The 12 miles into town from camp nearly wiped me out. I really need a break. But since I got that Senior Park Pass, I better use it. Acadia has these historic carriage roads that the rich and famous once traveled. We had energy to do one small loop. It was enough of a taste to want more. We must return with more time and fresher legs. For now it’s a 10 mile ride back to camp. 

Where we relax, do some laundry and some ocean viewing. 

While we were gone, Mark whom we met in Bowlus, MN a lifetime ago, was in Bar Harbor headed out and stopped in our camp. We were so close and I’m so bummed we missed him. He left a bag of fresh bagels if which the Chief Chipmunk required a tax of one bagel to secure our gift. Thanks Mark. The left overs are delicious and just what we needed. 

Tomorrow we have 10-12 miles back into town to the bike shop. Then a shuttle from there to the Bangor airport. We have a motel on site and fly to Seattle on Thursday where Al and Donna will pick us up in our Soob. Friday morning we drive the final 10 hours home. 

It will take me some time to process this journey. Don’t ask me when or where my next adventure lies. We do have some scheduled events coming up, but I can’t plan another three month bike tour just yet. 

First I need to return to the left coast

I am so far from home. 

Almost There

Almost There 

We had three wonderful days at the Hamilton Farm. Chris and Patti are gracious host. Patti is an awesome cook and farm foreman. Chris is a great wrangler and tour guide. 

Our digs were located in the barn’s loft. Quiet, relaxing and cool. It rained the first and last nights and our heads were inches away from the roof. The pitter patter lulled us to sleep. 

On Thursday we met Andrew, a fellow tourer whom Patti and Chris met earlier. He’s a sojourner exploring the world. I’m a bit envious of his freedom and yet awestruck knowing I could not follow his footsteps. 

Each night Chris would build a fire in the back yard after Patti created feasts that we ate outside on the deck. 

Friday we moved sheep helping Patti in her pasture rotation system. Then it was off to Pemaquid Point Lighthouse and then a search for fresh lobster. Being successful we feasted on lobster steamed on the back porch. I’m surprised at how much I enjoyed it! That night’s fire was cut short by the rain and off to the loft we went. 

Our bodies and souls being refreshed, Saturday we said our goodbyes guaranteeing ourselves we would see one another again. In fact we should catch up to Andrew for lunch tomorrow. We hit the road to Rockland and stayed with Ron and Denise, another Warm Shower host. We pitched our tent with a view that overlooked the bay. Ron was gracious enough to loan us his car so we could explore local lighthouses and ate the best hamburger ever at the Owlshead General Store. Later that night Ron interviewed us for his weekly community radio program “On the Road Again”. 

We woke this morning to a glowing sunrise out ur tent door. After a quick oatmeal breakfast we loaded up and following Ron’s advise we followed the established 1A national bike route north along the coast, eventually taking us back to Belfast. There by accident we found the Crumbs Provisions cafe on Front Street down by the water. What a gem. The sign said “limited breakfast menu” but we found it all we needed and more. Rhonda’s muffin and yogurt parfait was delicious. My buttermilk biscuit sandwich with frittata was excellent. And the coffee tasty. The owner asked the standard questions and when she learned where we started she got her father, the bus boy, to come over. Dad is also a cyclist of some accomplishment. We had a great conversation with a couple extra servings of coffee. 

Then we were off again. We were 36 miles in and needed another 27 before camp. We wound our way through Camden , a beautiful village on the bay. Then up and around on small roads that avoided holiday traffic. There were several cyclists out for day rides. We met Jeff and Barb from Camden who rode with us for several miles. What a treat. Great conversation and encouragement to finish he tour. 

Now we sit in camp at Balsam Cove Campground. It’s not quite 7 here and is as dark as it was at 10pm three months ago in Washington. Time to secure camp and find the tent. 

We have one more day of touring. Almost there. 

Ready to be Home, but Not Yet

I have to be reminded every now and then the importance of being flexible and adaptable. It is not easy for me, being somewhat concrete sequential. 

We met Patti and Chris cycling the roads of Washington oh so long ago. For a couple days we would overtake them on some pass, gap, notch , aka big hill.  They came to expect us and the last time we saw them Chris estimated we would catch them by 10. It was 9:59. Rhonda has been staying in touch with Patti ever since. 

It was a surprise to see the text with a photo of them entering Maine ahead of us. Since we skipped eastern MT and all of ND we had been a week ahead of them. Long story short, they took a shorter route that included entering Canada and found their way home. 

I’m ready to be home. Even with shorter days, I’m tired. My legs are tired. My body is sore. I’m homesick. And the remnants of Ida are bearing down on us. So what do we do? 

We changed our plans. We got a text from Patti and Chris inviting us to stop in. So our 30 mile day turned into 72 miles with 4000 feet of climbing. Traffic was heavy leaving the affluent and touristy Naples. We experienced inner city in Lewiston,ME. Two extremes for sure. We rolled up and down, mostly up, through the landscape as we followed Google’s directions. To my dismay she led us to a dead end which required us to backtrack and regain any elevation we lost. My right hand, which suffered a ski injury a couple seasons ago, now has arthritis and starts cramping after so many hours. It’s been frustrating. I’m ready to be done. But we forge on and found the Hamilton Farm where eggs, elderberry tincture, and organic sheep wool throws are sold. 

We were welcomed to their home/farm/barn. We canceled a motel for the next two nights and will stay here to weather the storm. We could hear the rain pitter patter all night long from our warm bed in the barn’s loft. We are treated to Patti’s excellent meals. Now Chris has invited us to the coastal town of Belfast while he visits his mom. We are rubbing shoulders with reality. 

One week from today we board a plane west. Home will come soon enough. 

Hello Maine

A short 7 miles from last night’s motel and we found Maine, our last state. It’s another first for me. There was a lot of road construction earlier this summer as we found many newly paved roads meandering through the woods, undulating throughout the day. We climbed as much today as we gave over “pass” days or “notch” days. Today was just steep rollers. Without a proper supper or breakfast they took their toll on my legs. 

It is a gorgeous day. Blue skies. Nice temps and we are getting acclimated to the humidity. We saw some great vistas riding along a ridge road before dropping down to Bridgton and finally Naples along the shore of Long Lake. Being more touristy we found restaurants open and their fare filling both soul and body. 

We will need it tomorrow

North Woodstock to Conway, NH

Like so many things in life, we build up in our minds a preconception of what we expect to happen, feel or what something should be like. We hadn’t heard much about New Hampshire and we have been pleasantly surprised at how beautiful and quaint it really is. We have slowed down our mileage to make sure we don’t get mixed up with the Labor Day holiday in Bar Harbor. Some of the benefits of slowing down is enjoying the areas we are riding through without feeling rushed. 

As we left this morning, we grabbed bagels for breakfast at White Mountain Bagels. They were great fuel for our ride today. It was 36 miles without services so we had snacks on board also. It was misty outside and rain was forecasted. We began climbing our last identified pass (col, notch, gap…) of the trip. Our climbing profile on the map made it look worse than it really was. It truly was enjoyable and we beat the rain. The views were shrouded by the fog & clouds but it was still very beautiful. The downhill was long and we cruised into Conway. Once we hit town, we were greeted with road construction for the bulk of Main Street. Cars were backed up for blocks. Conway is a hopping place just like N Woodstock but not as touristy. 

We started scoping out where to eat. This is really more difficult than it seems. We have learned that delaying usually ends up with restaurants closing up and we miss our opportunity. We didn’t even shower. We got online and found a restaurant that was open until 2:00pm! We really didn’t want to get back on our bikes & ride in the traffic to eat. While at lunch, we asked the server where he would recommend for dinner… that was open on a Monday. He gave us two ideas but neither were open today. We thought about going to the Dollar General to pick up snacks for dinner but the road had no sidewalks and I have already explained the traffic situation. So we headed to the 7-11 convenience Store across the street for nuts, jerky and some ice cream. Another preconceived idea we had; that restaurants in town would be open more often. Covid has wrecked havoc in so many areas. The small towns can’t keep up with employees to work the shifts necessary for a full schedule. Places that serve close on at least two days a week, some more. They also close at 2:00pm or don’t open until 4:00pm to 7:00pm. We have learned not to assume anything because when we show up they still have different hours listed. 

Today we were blessed with a great hotel called Scenic Inn which we got in our room before 1:00pm. Then the rains came this afternoon in a torrential downfall as we were warm & dry.

The take away is: we make no assumptions about whether or not we can find exactly what we want. The best part is, we can always find what we need to keep going. Usually, it works perfectly! We also have found New England to be more beautiful than we expected. Above all, the best part is how kindly we have been treated everywhere we go. Maybe it is because they think we are crazy or cool or something else.