Hyalite Canyon, Bozeman, MT

One year ago I retired from 30+ years of Conservation Law Enforcement, but I did not stand still. Three days after retiring I met my friend Andy Smith in Ouray, CO and took a three day ice climbing seminar. One year later, we finally got an opportunity to put our new skills to use. Andy flew into Boise last week and we drove to Bozeman, MT. Outside of town Hyalite Canyon drains a large watershed (Bozeman's water supply) and provides some spectacular outdoor pursuits. 

Hyalite Canyon has 7 general ice climbing areas comprising over 200 pitches (single climbs) of Ice. 

A mini guide to Ice Climbing in Hyalite Canyon

For the first day, we hired Montana Alpine Guides for a day of refresher training and hints to alpine style climbing. After driving from Bozeman we reached the Grotto Falls parking lot and started a 20-30 minute hike up the canyon trail on a very hard snow packed trail. A short distance we started walking up the side of the canyon to the "Unnamed Wall" where we would climb "The Fat One" with our guide Kyle.

The Mummy from the Unnamed Wall

Winter Dance Area-right 

Below the "Fat One", Kyle sets up an anchor for us to rappel down a lower section of ice.

Andy climbing back up

Kyle explains safety and rope management at the anchor

Rappelling is one of the most dangerous activities of any climbing.

At our anchor looking back towards the trailhead and the Genesis Climbing area. 

Andy begins his pitch up the Fat One

His form is looking good

About ready to top over the lip

Andy coming back down

Kyle shows us how it is done

My first time up, being belayed from above. We made a couple of circuits

Rappelling down

Climbing back up, via a top rope

Time at the gym this winter is paying off. 

Below and across the Canyon is the Amphitheater where we will be tomorrow

The Fat One is lower right just above the trees and the larger snow field. 

The Unnamed Wall from the Genesis Area

The second day we were on our own. Being Saturday the area was crowded but we found some ice for ourselves. Andy prepares to lead this pitch and us an established anchor above. 

Now it is my turn

The Genesis Area has several routes to practice and was very popular on this Saturday. 

Andy prepares to belay me up

rappelling back down

Practicing building a "V thread" 

After using an ice screw to drill opposing V shaped channels through the ice, cordellette is strung through and then tied off. From that you can build an anchor or rappel from it. Solid as Sears 

Maybe next time we can do a Winter Dance. 

Much thanks to Kyle from MAG for being a patient instructor and guide. He certainly enhanced our confidence.