As Becky, Mark and Clate readied to leave us, my old (yes we are) college buddy Jeff joined us. He arranged a tent spot in the Libby Volunteer Fireman Memorial Campground, nestled between the graveyard and Rosauers Supermart. Jeff says nothing has changed. He would know. He graduated high school in Libby, dug graves in the graveyard for a job, cruised the main drag and ate at Henry’s, which like Jeff and the campground, hasn’t changed much over the years. Jeff and I were roommates my last year at U of Montana. For the past 35+ years we meet each August with some other old and I mean old roommates and backpack in Montana. I’ll miss Beartooth Bonanza 2021 this year.
We woke up to heavy mist and fog. We slowly broke camp. Jeff built a pot of coffee with his camp stove as we loaded our bikes. It took 30 minutes to say goodbye. So we decided we should eat breakfast at Henry’s. It was the cheapest meal of the trip, but tasty and filling as any.
We rolled out of Libby and found the “Old Haul Road” that led up to the Libby Dam. The haul road was quiet save two polite logging trucks and the parallel railroad. At 15 miles we met a US Forest Service road crew. After the accustomed responses, “from where?”, “to Maine”, “OMG!”, these two road engineers talked us into taking the old road on the west side of Lake Koocanusa. Sure it’s a bit longer. Yeah maybe some more climbing, but each climb is shorter and less grade than the highway. The highway is busy, lots of traffic, no shoulder. Yes, the west side. You can find water at the USFS campgrounds. Who better than a road engineer to listen to for directions. I probably should have asked then if they were cyclists. I think I know the answer.
Another five miles and we climbed to the top of the dam. Great views. Met a couple from Texas who saw us on the road yesterday. They were headed to Alaska but until the border opens they are thinking Lobster instead of crab. We may see them in Maine.
We filled our water bottles again and kept climbing and descending and climbing and descending…
But oh the joy. For 45 miles we maybe saw 12 cars. No commercial traffic. Quiet!
The maps told us to be prepared for no services for 68 miles. The earlier road crew was great help. At 25 miles we found the campground with shaded shelter and running water. After a break we continued on and on. The views were awesome. The descending a blessing. The climbing and heat not so much. My Garmin said it reached 104. I’m thinking that was radiant heat off the tarmac, but 104 is 104.
Finally we saw the long bridge that crossed over and we joined hwy 37. Which has fine shoulders, wide enough to ride. And the chip seal was pretty smooth. I seemed to get a second wind as we made our way up to a little town of Rexford. Rhonda said it reminded her of Yellowpine. Oh no. Rexford is several rungs higher. I lived in Yellowpine, I know…buts that’s a story for another blog.
We found the Frontier Bar eager for our business so we ate the best burgers we had all day and about a gallon of ice water and a micro brew. No comparison to Yellowpine.
Six more miles over rollers heading into Eureka. What a beautiful valley! About two miles out a newer bike path led us in. We are now sprawled out in a motel room, showered and, well, the rest can wait for tomorrow. We are taking a rest day. Too many body parts ache and are sore.
Jon
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