Whitefish in my mirror, we found our route on undulating backroads towards Columbia Falls. Leaving early, the air was cool and the legs started strong. Passing through wooded homesites and then farm land, we entered Columbia Falls and stopped for breakfast at the Outlaw Cafe. My fare was called “blah, blah, blah”, fried red potatoes, sausage and eggs, over medium. A splash of tobasco and it was anything but blah. Towards West Glacier we traveled more back roads and even some gravel. When we reached US 2, there was a parallel bike path. Oh the joy. No competition with the traffic. In West Glacier we paid the accustomed tourist rate for some snacks and coffee. Learning that our future RV park up towards the pass had not opened its restaurant we bought some groceries and planned for self supported adventure.
The Glacier Haven RV park is under new management. Like Ione, WA the new owners sold their home in WA and set up shop in MT. I see a trend developing. We set up camp, showered, relaxed, ate freeze dried Cuban Coconut Black Beans, and waited for the sun and temps to go down. The RV park is nestled between Hwy 2 and the BNSF rail. The same set of tracks that ran next to our Whitefish camp. We were so tired we hardly noticed.
This morning we slept in some. Well Rhonda did. I made coffee, then another. Just enjoying the cool mountain air. We ate groceries from yesterday and took off up towards the pass.
In a little over 6 miles we came to Essex and the Izaack Walton League Inn. So we pulled in. Izaack was an early writer and enjoyed fishing. Three centuries later some conservationists and outdoor enthusiasts started a club in his honor. As a baby game warden in South Dakota I remember attending their wild game feeds and giving presentations when they couldn’t find anyone else.
The Inn in Essex is reminiscent of early Americana of the 30’s. We went into the quiet cafe where guests were served breakfast and we ordered some cocoa and coffee and for a change, a fruit salad. Did I mention it was quiet?
Except for climbing the pass and the climbing temps, I could have stayed there a while, maybe longer. Maybe you wouldn’t see me again.
But the road beckoned and we climbed a couple thousand feet to the Continental divide. Very majestic!
You’d imagine we would have a fast downhill into East Glacier. But you’d be wrong. The shoulders disappeared, the grade was gentle, except for the false summit climbs. But eventually we made it into East Glacier. Our home for tonight is a hostel. A first for me.
They just let us know our room is ready so I’ll see you later.
Update:
The room reminds me of mountain huts and shared accommodations of Europe. The place is a beehive of activity. Most are young hikers; some through hikers on the Continental
Divide Trail, others hiking Glacier NP proper and some just wanderers.
Still others are here for the ice cream. And their pizza is good. And of course there is the occasional bike pair. We are possibly the oldest guests in the hostel, but very young at heart.
It’s looking like the heat wave is following us east. So it’s off to bed in hopes of an early cool start
Jon
Glad to see you proofread. I was concerned that you might have a new "refined appreciation".
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