Hello Maine

A short 7 miles from last night’s motel and we found Maine, our last state. It’s another first for me. There was a lot of road construction earlier this summer as we found many newly paved roads meandering through the woods, undulating throughout the day. We climbed as much today as we gave over “pass” days or “notch” days. Today was just steep rollers. Without a proper supper or breakfast they took their toll on my legs. 

It is a gorgeous day. Blue skies. Nice temps and we are getting acclimated to the humidity. We saw some great vistas riding along a ridge road before dropping down to Bridgton and finally Naples along the shore of Long Lake. Being more touristy we found restaurants open and their fare filling both soul and body. 

We will need it tomorrow

North Woodstock to Conway, NH

Like so many things in life, we build up in our minds a preconception of what we expect to happen, feel or what something should be like. We hadn’t heard much about New Hampshire and we have been pleasantly surprised at how beautiful and quaint it really is. We have slowed down our mileage to make sure we don’t get mixed up with the Labor Day holiday in Bar Harbor. Some of the benefits of slowing down is enjoying the areas we are riding through without feeling rushed. 

As we left this morning, we grabbed bagels for breakfast at White Mountain Bagels. They were great fuel for our ride today. It was 36 miles without services so we had snacks on board also. It was misty outside and rain was forecasted. We began climbing our last identified pass (col, notch, gap…) of the trip. Our climbing profile on the map made it look worse than it really was. It truly was enjoyable and we beat the rain. The views were shrouded by the fog & clouds but it was still very beautiful. The downhill was long and we cruised into Conway. Once we hit town, we were greeted with road construction for the bulk of Main Street. Cars were backed up for blocks. Conway is a hopping place just like N Woodstock but not as touristy. 

We started scoping out where to eat. This is really more difficult than it seems. We have learned that delaying usually ends up with restaurants closing up and we miss our opportunity. We didn’t even shower. We got online and found a restaurant that was open until 2:00pm! We really didn’t want to get back on our bikes & ride in the traffic to eat. While at lunch, we asked the server where he would recommend for dinner… that was open on a Monday. He gave us two ideas but neither were open today. We thought about going to the Dollar General to pick up snacks for dinner but the road had no sidewalks and I have already explained the traffic situation. So we headed to the 7-11 convenience Store across the street for nuts, jerky and some ice cream. Another preconceived idea we had; that restaurants in town would be open more often. Covid has wrecked havoc in so many areas. The small towns can’t keep up with employees to work the shifts necessary for a full schedule. Places that serve close on at least two days a week, some more. They also close at 2:00pm or don’t open until 4:00pm to 7:00pm. We have learned not to assume anything because when we show up they still have different hours listed. 

Today we were blessed with a great hotel called Scenic Inn which we got in our room before 1:00pm. Then the rains came this afternoon in a torrential downfall as we were warm & dry.

The take away is: we make no assumptions about whether or not we can find exactly what we want. The best part is, we can always find what we need to keep going. Usually, it works perfectly! We also have found New England to be more beautiful than we expected. Above all, the best part is how kindly we have been treated everywhere we go. Maybe it is because they think we are crazy or cool or something else.

Is it a Gap, Pass, Notch or a Summit!

I’ve biked over Galena, Banner, and Aldape Summits in Idaho. Lost Trail and Lolo Passes in Montana. Now Middlebury Gap in Vermont and Kinsman Notch in New Hampshire. Other places they may refer to a “saddle”. In Europe these features are referred by the French word “col”.  What is the difference? They all refer to a ‘navigable route’ through the mountains. The differences may actually be geological. But more likely they are geographically cultural nuances. 

Vermont likes their gaps. Especially when organizing rides. They will have a 3 gap or 4 gap ride completed in either a single or multiple day event.  A gap is similar to a pass but is considered more rugged. In fact I found these gaps to have steeper grades than my home passes. 

Today we climbed over the Kinsman Notch in New Hampshire. A notch usually refers to a pass that has steep cliffs on either side. The Kinsman would qualify. They like their notches in New Hampshire. 

It could have been that today’s Kinsman climb done in 59 degrees versus the 90 degree heat climb up the Middlebury Gap that gives an unwarranted favorable opinion of the Notch. 

I’m sure my geologist friends would offer a more comprehensive study on the differences between these. I’m just fascinated by the cultural and  geographical usage of a term referring to the high point I have to pedal before I earn the downhill. 

Before we started the proper attack of the Kinsman Notch, we found the Windy Ridge Orchard and Cider House Cafe. This would be our halfway point of the day and only food source. No other services would be available as we climbed and then descended the Kinsman Notch. 

The Fabrizio family bought the farm in 1967 and planted their first orchard the following year. They now offer tours to kids of the cider and farm animal business. Daughter Fabrizio started and operates the cider house cafe. Very tasty grilled sandwiches. Ours was the Empire with ham, turkey, provolone and garlic roasted balsamic vinaigrette. Mine on sourdough. And because of the earlier misty rain and low clouds I needed another hot cup of coffee. 

After lunch we were gearing up when this deep New England accent said “were did you ride from?”  Well I think that’s what he said. I’m pretty sure. Ok, I guessed. I don’t speak New England very well. The old gent wore dungaree shorts, boots, cap and three layers of plaid shirts of various colors and rips. He did have one of those big smiles. So I answered like I have so many times during the past two months. Of course we weren’t his first cyclist. 

Mr Fabrizio was very interested in our route, where we started and of course expressed approval in our destination of ‘Ba Habr’. He was excited to learn I ate my first lobsta yesterday and encouraged me to try more once I get to Maine.  As any farmer does, he talked fondly of the landscape and not so much of the weather. He shared an interest in Rhonda’s teaching profession, having a wife who taught French then 2nd grade for 18 years. 

As we straddled our bikes he looked up and said in that thick accent, “you shouldn’t need to worry about the rain crossing the Notch. I think it’s over for the day.”  

Local Eating Conventions

I’ve heard of lobster rolls, but really didn’t understand what they were. Like a sushi roll? Cheese roll? Something baked? Two days in a row I’ve had someone suggest them. We pulled into  our camp early today. The owner is a local retired chief of police. Very nice guy. We both agreed we are happy not to be on the job in these times. Anywho, he suggests the best lobster rolls are just across the street. Who am I to argue. I don’t know what they much less eaten one. My friends say I’m a mixed up Viking for my passivity towards critters that reproduce in the water. 

We hadn’t eaten since breakfast. Another local food convention faux pas on my part. Who knew you were to sleep in hours past the first rooster crowing before breakfast was served in a New England B&B. When we were asked what time we wanted breakfast I thought a leisurely 7:30 would work. We do have miles to ride and hills to climb. Evelyn frowned. Said her help, who would be serving us wouldn’t like it but would do it. I said, ok , 8 would be fine. She says that would be better. Evelyn was working some farmers markets this weekend selling her famous pies and quiche and jams. She would leave a tomato basil quiche for us that just required warming up. 

We slept so good in this 1840 house with a soft bed and feather pillows. It was like being a kid again at grandma’s house. The weather had turned and was cooling down but we kept the fans going and curled up under the blankets. Oh the joy. The first rooster went off a little after 6. I was kinda awake already but was actually lulled backed to sleep. A faulty rooster I suppose. At 6:30 I got out of bed and shut off the fan and noticed the hills were covered in clouds. Hmm. Back to the bed and under the blankets. More roosters joined in and by 7 I was wide awake checking the weather. Cooler, highs near 70. Cloudy. Perfect day to climb hills. We packed and brought all our gear downstairs. No one around. Usually there’s clanging and percolating coffee noises going on in a B&B.  I found the coffee pot. It was already preloaded so I turned it on. It’s after 8 now and no one stirring except us guests who were hungry. The coffee was actually really good. Strong and flavorful. I’ll have a second cup. 8:15. Still hungry. A third cup. At 8:27 I sent Evelyn a text thanking her for a nice warm bed but that we were headed into town for brunch as we still had miles to go and hills to climb. I hesitated pushing send and finished another cup. Once I pushed send I went in to place my cup in the sink when someone came down the stairs and both of us startled. She said she  wasn’t aware of us but sure knew the quiche in the frig was for us. Hmm? Wanting to be gracious and because mean people don’t ride bikes, we stayed, sat down and enjoyed a very tasty quiche, with seconds and more coffee while sitting on the porch watching the sun burn off the clouds. 

Fueled up we hit the road, back through South Royalton and the River road going downstream. We reached the village of Sharon and the road turned sharply up. Mr Garmin says 11% then 13. Second breakfast was the quiche again. Not as tasty the second time but it stayed down. I’m used to being passed by my wife on the climbs. I’m secure in that. But when four other ladies or gents pass me like I’m standing still, I question my abilities.  At the summit, or what is locally referred to as the gap, they were chatting with Rhonda and in need of mechanical help. The head tube of one bike was way loose. Then I noticed they were all riding E-bikes. I fixed the one. I’m as worthy now as the burger we ate yesterday. 

We rolled down and up and down through villages, like Sharon, South Strafford, and Thetford Center, that in some places would be considered touristy or vacation stops. Here in the Green Mountain State they are simply called ‘home’. The old creaky wood floored general stores are beaming with customers, all residents. All not in a hurry. All talking to one another. All giving each other smiles and waves. I guess this is the Vermont I had expected and was wanting.  We came upon the Sayre Bridge, a one lane covered bridge built around 1840. A local stopped, rolled down her window and asked, “ you want me to take your picture in front of the bridge?”  She has a vested interest in the bridge, raising money to maintain it and designing the new sign. She was so excited to hear of our journey. She thought we were hero’s. We’re not but accepted the platitudes with grace. Finally she said goodbye and wished us well on the next hill that awaited us on the over side of the bridge. Ugh. 

Then like that we were done climbing, for the day. Soon we crossed  the Connecticut River and entered New Hampshire. We took a left along the River road and soon entered another covered bridge. Then just like that we were in Orford and found our camp, The Pastures Campground. We were offered the premier site, tucked away in a corner on the River. 

Which is where we ate the most incredible lunch. The lobster roll was so delicious. I’m hooked. And the broccoli slaw the perfect side dish. We have been treated so well again this day. We are blessed. We are now eating a fine pizza delivered to us. Supposedly this restaurant doesn’t deliver this far out, but the camp owners gave us a name to drop and without hesitation today’s special Fire Oven Crust Backyard BBQ was delivered then devoured. 

The local food convention simply states: “eat well, live well, it’s a choice”.