Fred and Neighbors Beagle

Sleep came hard under the pavilion where the overhead lights automatically turn on at 10. Of course there was this nagging thought that we’d be rousted out into the rain by either some official or local hooligans. Neither appeared. 

The rain came down hard at times. I guess Fred wasn’t giving up without a fight. He had competition from local train traffic and a factory that produces seals for pipe found across the canal. I learned all about the products needed for insuring gas and liquid piping to be sealed properly at each joint as I searched online at 3:30 am. 

Soon the rain ended and somewhere during the night I dozed off. I awoke and clambered out of the tent around 6. I was building a cup of coffee when the local ambulance crew parked in the lot adjacent to the pavilion in their diesel powered van that they idled. It’s anyone’s guess why they were there. Shortly after they arrived a city maintenance guy drives up, grabs cleaning stuff and headed into the “comfort station”. He greeted me and hoped we stayed dry. He thought the worst was over. After his morning chore he said goodbye and left. I could have slept much more throughout the night knowing what I know now.  

Rhonda and Laura soon were up.  I guess I need a diesel ambulance more often. We were packed and by 7:15 we rolled to the now open Muddy Water Cafe next door. The ambulance took off. Not in a hurry as if responding to a call , but more like, I guess the cyclists are golden and are leaving. Muddy Waters was very cute, if I’m allowed to use that description. It sits overlooking the canal marina and pavilion. The proprietor also rents the downstairs as an Airbnb, another bit of information that would have been useful to my sleep. 

There was a bit of a headwind out of the north but the clouds held back. It was actually pleasant riding. We crossed over the towpath and soon found the undulating  country side. Once again we were pedaling through crop land and orchards. 

One of the pleasures of the open road over the towpath is that we are always navigating. You measure your progress by each turn and crossroads. The towpath is a “road that goes on forever, and the party never ends” as Robert Earl Keen would sing. 

In Williamson, founded in 1802, we found a Walgreens for some needed dietary supplements. As we parked our bike, an elder gent came up and says, “where you headed?”

“Bar Harbor Maine” says I. 

“ you got to be kidding? That’s great.” 

“And what’s even crazier is that we started in Anacortes Washington”

“The state of Washington?!” 

“Yes sir, I’ve ridden 2,800 miles just to meet you”. 

He sticks out his hand and we shake. 

“I’m Merril” 

“I’m Jon, glad to meet you”. 

“So where you headed tonight?” 

“Just to Fair Haven, the state park” 

“My home town is Fair Haven. As a matter of fact we are headed there tonight for dinner”. 

Laura asks, “where’s a good place to eat?”  

“Pleasant Beach Hotel is probably the best and fanciest. The old Hardware Cafe and General store is pretty good for burgers. It used to be the actual hardware store. Across the street was a market that my parents ran and where I grew up. I used to get all my nuts and bolts at that hardware store.” 

“Well maybe we will see you at dinner” 

“That would be so great. Tell them Merrill Parker sent you. Maybe they’ll kick you out.  Hey George, give these folks whatever they need. These crazy folks are crossing the country on these bikes”, as he entered the store. 

Another 4 miles and we entered Pultneyville on Lake Ontario’s shore. Another location of War of 1812 history. Our route turned east. We had enjoyed some nice weather and even hints of blue sky. But Fred wanted to come out and play again. We saw the wall of mist ahead and we put on our rain gear just in time. We tired of Fred and soon the rain stopped and then we stopped in Walcott for lunch. Hey, if my writing is sporadic and seems interrupted you can blame the beagle in the camper next door whose owners decided to eat peacefully in town. 

Leaving Walcott, we climbed and descended the undulating shoreline. Another 14 miles and we entered Fair Haven. We found the converted Hardware store where Merrill bought nuts and bolts and his parents’ old market, now a craft beer pub and wine salon. 

The biggest find was the barber shop open to walk ins. So I did. 15 minutes later and $12 poorer my bald head once again was. And no scheduling APP and two week wait required. 

Before camp we headed to a grocery store for something to eat later. As much as I’d like to surprise Merrill at dinner, I’m going to climb that hill into camp only once.