All Aboard!

Just to catch you up. Dad is doing great. He is home.  It is good to see him and be with him in his apartment. 

Wed

After booking Amtrak tickets, we also booked another night at Brownies, although we needed to relocate to a different room. Amtrak did not have space for us and our bikes the following day. We would have to wait until Friday. But you know this already. 

Wednesday evening we ate at the Whistle Stop next door. The smoker and bbq aroma lured us in. It was a  wait of 15-20 minutes. The bbq beef and chicken sandwiches were yummy. We learned that the Whistle Stop and Brownies are owned by the same folks. 

Back in Brownies Rhonda needed a cookie, served by Bruno and David with a smile. They threw in an extra Snickerdoodle for me. We met a father son bike team who have been following our route a couple days behind us. On the route from Libby to Eureka the son experienced heat exhaustion. The were rescued by a passer by and ferried into Eureka. A third solo rider also made his way to Eureka that night and both parties opted to recover and recoup an extra day. John, the solo rider heard our plans to take a train and beat the heat. I think this freed him to verbalize his thoughts of the last three days to rent a car and drive ahead of the heat. 

Wednesday night was hot and the fans in Brownies  did not keep up. Sleep came late. We awoke to learn Brownies was closed Thursday. Good. The boys deserved a day off. The Whistle Stop was open and their breakfast was as yummy as dinner the evening before. 

We had the whole day to find something to occupy our time. Hey, why not go on a bike ride? We thought it was only 3-4 miles to Two Medicine Lake and the park entrance. The lake is 4 miles away, but the park entrance was another 3-4 miles. But it felt good to stretch the legs again. Climbing a short but steep grade, a dog barked then went quiet. Suddenly a Pit Bull crept up out of the trees without warning and only growled when he was within a couple feet of us. My legs found strength I didn’t have before. Rhonda and I yelled as we tried to climb faster. I was reaching for my bear spray as she reached for a water bottle and just as suddenly the Pit Bull slithered back to the cover of the bush and trees. 

We continued on and at the top of the pull the lake and backdrop came into full view. The first time I saw this view was 1978. I was a transfer sophomore student at the University of Montana. Freshman and transfer students needed to attend an orientation prior to starting classes. My roommate Mark and I met three others who invited us on a three day backpack trip to Glacier in between orientation and classes. I think I was invited because I had a 1973 Plymouth Duster and a tank of gas. The trip was my true orientation to the mountain west. Hiking in the mountains was only something I read about and dreamed of since I was 13 years old.  Maybe that trip was how I could connect and appreciate all these young kids we shared space at Brownies. They, as I back then, are here realizing their dreams or searching for reasons to dream. 

Soon Rhonda and pedaled to the park border but did not enter past the entrance gate. Pictures were taken and we began the return trip, now 7 1/2 miles away. We developed a plan of defense for the Pit Bull. At the top of the hill, water bottles and bear spray readied we coasted down past the dogs lair. As we passed no dog was seen and we pedaled harder gaining speed, only to hear a faint howl behind us. We survived. 

Brownies was quiet. Still closed for the day. But the boys did not have the full day off. I met Sergio walking out of the laundry with fresh linens. We greeted one another. His smile as large as ever. I wished him well during his stay this summer.  I will miss Sergio, David, and Bruno. 

We saw John again who was staying at the same motel we were further down the road near the train station. He was still planning to cycle eastward. I pray he has found relief from the heat. 

The Circle R motel has AC. Oh the joy. Around the corner Leo’s Eatery is fully staffed and serves great food. Fully satiated and rested, we slept soundly. 

Simon and Garfunkel train lyrics, more so than any country western train song, filled my head in the morning. I was pretty anxious to be at the train station on time. This was exciting. I had to remove all bags and attachments off the bike and find room for all our belongings inside our pannier bags (8 bags total; 4 checked, 2 carry on each ). Soon the whistle sounded and coming round the corner, the Empire Builder #28 was in view. The bikes were loaded without issue and a porter directed us to our car. What’s up with all this leg room?! Although the conductor reported this was a sold out train, our coach car had plenty of vacant seats. Most of the East Glacier passengers were tourists. But as we rolled out the station and traveled east along Montana’s High Line, we stopped at places like Cut Bank, Havre, Malta, Shelby picking up legitimate passengers. Experienced train travelers. What exactly was inside those coolers? 

Like all restaurants, staffing was an issue for the dining car. Only those in sleeper cars had access. The rest of us competed for hot dogs and chips in the cafe car. I was in heaven. But by North Dakota I was wondering what really was inside those coolers. 

By Minot, ND the sun was setting and soon we were trying to figure out how we could sleep. No one told us we needed to bring pillows or blankets. We did, they were just in our checked panniers. We were scheduled to arrive in Fargo at 2 ish am. By now we were going to be delayed 20 minutes. Not Swiss timing. My sister Jill laughs and texts that a 20 minute delay is nothing for Amtrak. Even later as the delay was nearly an hour, she was not surprised. 

The rhythm of the train eventually lulled me to sleep. Halfway between Grand Forks and Fargo I was wide awake and ready for this train ride to end. Ten minutes out of Fargo the conductor ensured we were awake and readied. As we stopped in Fargo we awaited to depart. Waiting for us on the platform with our bikes (the bikes got off with the first class passengers) my sister Jill and husband Ed were waiting for us. The current station, a not all that impressive piece of architecture, is located next door to the historic Great Northern train station, now home to the Great Northern Bicylce Company! Can’t I just roll out my sleeping bag and wait for them to open? Jill says it would be better if we stayed in our Home2Home hotel rooms. More AC. Soft bed. No alarm. There would be plenty of time later in the day to return to the Great Northern Bicycle Co.  Anorther must see and visit bike shop. 

After some rest and resupply shopping we drove to Fergus Falls where we found dad waiting patiently. We will hang out here for a few days, staying with my aunt, hanging out with dad and celebrating the 4th at my cousins.